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Your Guide to Recognizing A Good Breeder, Or Becoming One

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Your Guide to Recognizing A Good Breeder, Or Becoming One Empty Your Guide to Recognizing A Good Breeder, Or Becoming One

Post by Admin

Here's a very helpful (reprinted) guide in buying a quality, healthy, well-socialized puppy that is free of genetic diseases from a responsible breeder, and likewise, how to be become a responsible breeder.


Traits of Responsible
Hobby Breeders
Traits of Backyard Breeders
"Into" Dogs (shows, training, clubs, etc.) Not "into" dogs (has "pets" around the house)
Belongs to dog clubs and organizations Is not involved in the "dog world"
Proves quality of dogs and suitability for breeding by competing for titles and certificates in conformation, obedience, agility, field trialing, Schutzhund, herding, tracking, earthdog trials, etc. Quality of dogs is almost always substandard, however, he does not test his dogs in shows or trials (Dogs are just pets or "breeding machines")
Pups' pedigrees are filled with dogs who have obtained show titles/working certificates; never breeds dogs without "papers" Pedigrees mostly a list of pets bred by backyard breeders; pups may not even have "papers"; may be mongrels (Cockapoos, etc.)
Supports rescue groups; knows his actions inevitably play some part in pet overpopulation and euthanasia (one of every four dogs in shelters is purebred). Even with all his efforts to stem over- population, he knows "cracks" will lead to canine deaths Honestly believes that because he places/sells all his pups, he does not contribute in any way to the needless slaughter of millions of dogs per year in shelters (Does not see his role in his pups making pups and them making more pups and so on)
Knowledgeable in every facet of breed, including that of health issues/defects; researches genetics when choosing mates Not particularly educated about breed, often not aware of his own breed's genetic defects; does not consider mate's genetics
Knowledgeable about house breaking, training, socializing, breeding, health; constantly reads dog-related materials Has own ideas which may not coincide with professionals' opinions; won't bother to read any of the hundreds of dog books available
Can and will help and educate puppy buyers re these issues Says "Goodbye" and "Good luck"
Willing to give you his references Has no references
Knows his puppies' ancestry Knows nothing about the other dogs on puppies' pedigrees
Follows up on puppies' well-being; collects health information affecting his dogs Does not concern himself with the puppies' well-being or how puppies' health affects his breeding "plan"
Breeds to improve his own dogs, his bloodlines and the breed Breeds just to breed or make money or see his "great dog" procreate
Rarely breeds as he does not use dog breeding as a business and strives for quality, not quantity Breeds regularly if for money or if puppy mill; if for ego, breeds once in awhile, or "just once" before neutering or spaying
Rarely repeats a breeding Often repeats breedings, mainly those that are cheap and convenient.
Breeds only dogs which meet breed standard Dogs used for breeding rarely meet breed standard
Breeds only dogs with stable temperaments Breeds shy/aggressive dogs with poor temperaments
Breeds only dogs over 2 years old, and a limited number of times Breeds dogs at almost any age, and any number of times
Mate choice could be anywhere in the country (almost never breeds his own males to his own females) Mate choice is that which is convenient, cheap, local (very often owns both sire and dam)
Does all genetic testing and will provide proof; does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of defects Does no genetic testing; ignorantly breeds defective animals or those which are carriers, thus, perpetuating disease in breed
Puppies are sold from waiting list created before breeding even takes place Puppies are sold after birth in the local newspaper, first-come, first-served
Pet-quality pups generally cost $500-600+ (show-quality costs more)
*Note: these were 1999 prices
 
All pups are pet-quality and are relatively cheap, usually $200-$400
*Note: these were 1999 prices
Puppies are sold with health guarantees Puppies are sold with no guarantee
Puppies are sold with contracts No contracts; does not care what you do with puppies
Requires pups back if new homes don't work out Says "Find them good homes"
Dogs on property are friendly, socialized, trained Dogs on property may be aggressive or shy, and untrained
Does not own more dogs than he has room, time or money for; Dogs are groomed, exercised, healthy, happy Puppy mills are overloaded, "warehoused" dogs are not groomed or exercised, don't look healthy or happy
Will show you pups' parents if available, or if not, will have pictures Might have to "lock up" pups' aggressive or shy parents (dogs that should never have been bred)
Raises puppies indoors Raises puppies outdoors
Stays home to care for puppies Dam and pups are alone for long hours
Feeds only premium dog food Feeds cheap, grocery store dog food (containing 4D meat/chemicals)
Visitors remove shoes and wash hands to prevent spread of parvovirus Has no understanding and takes no precautions to prevent puppy-killer disease
Keeps pups with mom and litter a minimum of 8 weeks to ensure sibling socialization and important lessons from pups' mother Doesn't know leaving litter earlier can cause lifelong temperament problems or staying too long can hurt bonding with humans
Socializes pups by systematically handling them and exposing them to various noises, children and other animals before sending them to new homes Does not understand or want to be troubled with any kind of training; just tries to keep puppies quiet and contained until sold
Tests pups to match their temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities and lifestyles Knows nothing about puppy-testing or matching puppies with buyers; allows buyers to pick the "cutest" one
Can honestly evaluate pups' quality Says all pups are high quality
Never sells to "impulse" buyers Is not concerned about buyers being prepared for pups
Never sells two pups at the same time to a novice Would consider this killing two birds with one sale
Interviews prospective buyers, checks home and references, refuses to sell to substandard homes Sells first-come, first-served to whomever has the cash; does not find out which homes are substandard
Wants to meet whole family; won't sell if children are abusive Does not consider anything past obtaining the funds
Sells only to buyers with disposable income to properly care for a dog Is not concerned whether or not buyers can afford to properly care for pups
Waits for buyers who offer lifelong homes (Knows that only 30 percent of all dogs stay in one home throughout their lives) Does not reject high-risk buyers: (renters, young people, those with poor track records, low income, other pets, dogs kept outdoors)
Understands dogs are "pack" animals; sells pets only to buyers wanting to make pup an indoor dog and part of the family Doesn't care if pups live as outdoor dogs or chained dogs, being unhappy or anxious being isolated and separated from "packs"
Sells only to buyers who make pup's safety a priority Does not consider pups' best interests
Encourages or requires buyers to spay/neuter pet-quality pups Encourages buyers to breed, regardless of quality
Encourages buyers to train pups; refers to good trainer Shows no concern for pups after sale; knows no trainers
Makes sure buyers understand pup's considerable need for time, attention, exercise and training Does not provide even his own dogs with enough time, attention, exercise or training

Responsible Breeders
Improve the Breed

Backyard Breeders
Damage the Breed

Copyright 1999 Victoria Rose

 
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My dog: : Bella
Location : Washinton, DC
Join date : 2018-04-08
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